Thursday, December 17, 2009

World Heritage Sites


Most of us could name a few World Heritage sites across the globe, but each year UNESCO adds some lesser known locations to a list of more famous names. Reputation isn’t everything though, so let WTG do the hard work as we pick out the highlights of the 2009 new additions that are vying for your affection.

Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park, Philippines

Few diving destinations around the world can offer such a personal underwater experience as Tubbataha Reef. Situated off the coast of the Philippines in the Sulu Sea, the isolated reef was formed thousands of years ago when volcanic islands sunk into the ocean. The attached coral reefs weren't willing to go down without a fight and continued growing upwards towards the surface. Over time this resulted in the creation of a unique 100m (328 ft) underwater coral wall and two coral islands that are home to over 100 species of bird and 500 different types of fish including manta rays, lionfish and clownfish.

Wales is home to Aqueducts ©  Creative Commons / gluemoon

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Canal, Wales

One of the major achievements of the Industrial Revolution, the design of the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Canal in north-eastern Wales was used as an inspirational template for similar projects all over the world. The elegance of the structure and the fact that the canal was built without the use of locks is even more impressive given the undulating nature of the landscape that surrounds it. All that engineering innovation, courtesy of pioneering designer Thomas Telford, certainly benefits anyone who visits today. Whether you cross by foot or by boat, you will be treated to breathtaking views of the River Dee valley from 125 ft (38m) in the air.

Italy's Dolomite Mountains are  an imposing landmark © Creative Commons / Nigel's Europe

The Dolomites, Italy

Although the Dolomites are hardly a well kept secret, it's not surprising that the mountain range in north-eastern Italy has been acknowledged as a site of global significance. The mountain range is a series of stunning visual contrasts, with pale faced limestone rock faces towering over a variety of different types of forests and meadows. In the spring and summer, take a walk in the Dolomites; watch the sun bounce off glassy lakes and go home with photos of picture perfect villages or one of the 50 types of orchid found here. In the winter, enjoy some of the most thrilling ski runs on the continent.

The Wadden Sea is beautiful at  sunset © Creative Commons / vindoe40

The Wadden Sea, Germany/Netherlands

This 400km (248 mi) stretch of coast that covers both Germany and the Netherlands is a nature lover's paradise. As the largest unbroken system of mud and sands flats in the world, it has as unsurprising wealth of bird and marine wildlife. Around 12 million birds, such as the common shelduck and hen harrier, pass through the area throughout the year and the Wadden Sea is a stopping point for migratory journeys from across the globe. These transitory visitors join the more permanent residents, such as harbour and grey seal. Turn inland and vibrant green salt marshes await, or at low tide turn the other way to walk out to one of the nearby islands. Just watch out for the prawns and hermit crabs that are bound to be darting around your feet.

Cidade Velha holds a difficult  history for Cape Verde © Creative Commons / F H Mira

Cidade Velha, Cape Verde Islands

In the south of Santiago Island, the town of Cidade Velha is a testament to Europe's colonial impact on Africa during the slave trade. It was a major stopping point for slaves being transported to the Caribbean and Brazil and those who disobeyed their masters were punished on the white marble whipping post located in the centre of the town. Potential invaders were faced with the daunting sight of Forte Real de São Filipe, built to see off a variety of pirates, as well as the French and English. Cidade Velha has had its fair share of illustrious visitors; Vasco de Gama and Christopher Columbus moored here on different journeys across the globe.

Mount Wutai is best for Buddist  Culture © Creative Commons / daveyll

Mount Wutai, China

Peace and tranquillity is guaranteed for anyone who visits the last of our picks from the 2009 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. One of the four sacred Buddhist Mountains in China, Mount Wutai and the 53 sacred monasteries found on its five terraces had a profound affect on the country's palace architecture for 1,000 years. Hundreds of statues line the site, each telling a different story, while the vertical forests that fall away from Mount Wutai spend much of the year topped with a dusting of snow. Designed to show the harmony between man and nature, it's easy to see why pilgrims still visit Mount Wutai today.

Author: Jonathan Moore

Saturday, December 12, 2009

On the right track: Scenic rail journeys


From the spectacular fjords of western Norway to the dense forests of Lapland and the myriad lakes of eastern Finland, beautiful scenery awaits at every bend on a train journey in Scandinavia.

Jump aboard to discover the region's most thrilling rail trips.

Bergensbanen, Norway

Celebrating its centenary in 2009, the Bergensbanen (Bergen Line) originally began life as a vital new link between the country's two biggest cities, Bergen in the east and Oslo in the west. Around 15,000 men worked on this huge engineering project, laying tracks round the clock and carving out no fewer than 182 tunnels. It was a daring undertaking that cost the Norwegian state a whopping 50 million kroner, equivalent to the whole state budget at the time.

It's the stretch along the Hardangervidda, Europe's highest mountainous plateau, which boasts the most spectacular scenery, and has made this railway famous the world over. Finse, at 1,222m (4,008ft) above sea level, is the highest point on the line, and a popular destination for nostalgic winter sports enthusiasts, although other ski resorts such as Geilo, Gol and Nesbyen also draw their fair share of visitors.

With rough weather, extreme temperatures and the risk of avalanches ever present, the line remains a challenge to run despite advances in technology, but the railway is open year round. The trip between Oslo and Bergen takes about eight hours.

The Rauma Line winds over 32 bridges © Bjørn H Stuedal/NSB

Rauma Line, Norway

Not as well known, but arguably just as beautiful as the Flåm Railway, is the Rauma Line (Raumabanen), which snakes its way through stunning alpine scenery from Dombås, a mountain village in Dovre, to the town of Åndalsnes, by Romsdalfjord. The 124km (77 miles) track winds over 32 bridges and through four horseshoe-tunnels. Parts of the route featured in the film Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince.

During the summer (June-August), the focus is on sightseeing; audio commentaries are offered in several languages, including English, and the trains slow in speed enabling visitors to enjoy the scenery. The panoramic windows mean it's easy to take photographs too. Highlights include: Trollveggen, Europe's tallest vertical rock face (watch out for rock-climbers and base-jumpers); Kylling Bridge (particularly impressive when floodlit at night), and the emerald-green Rauma River, which follows the tracks for part of the route.

Flåm Railway, Norway

A side line from the Bergensbanen, the Flåm Railway plunges its way from Myrdal down to the majestic Aurlandfjord some 800m (2,624ft) below. It is one of the world's steepest railway lines, clinging to the mountainside at an angle that will make you forget about reaching for your camera and clench your armrest that little bit harder instead. Indeed, it's such a steep descent that trains are equipped with five braking systems.

Another masterpiece of Norwegian engineering, the 20km stretch passes through 20 tunnels, most of which had to be excavated manually - each metre taking a team of over 100 men a month to dig. From the rugged peaks surrounding Myrdal to the lush valley by the fjord below, the landscape is breathtaking, dotted at every bend with rushing streams, waterfalls, picturesque wooden farms and even mountain goats.

Discover Sami culture in Sweden © www.imagebank.sweden.se / Bo Lind / Visit Sweden

Inlandsbanan, Sweden

No trip to Scandinavia would be complete without a foray into Lapland, and the Inlandsbanan (Inland Railway) between Mora and Gällivare is one of the best ways to discover this untamed wilderness. Travel in summer to experience the midnight sun and make the most of the long, warmer days. Or venture north in the midst of winter and marvel at the white frozen wonderland from the comfort of your (heated) carriage. You may even be lucky and catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights.

Whatever the season, there is plenty to see and do along the way. Discover Sami culture, explore rugged, unique nature (the Laponia Area is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage list), try your hand at angling, pick cloudberries, join a reindeer safari or even visit the local mosquito museum in Galliväre (ouch!). Package tours are available, or you can travel independently with the Inlandsbanan Card, enabling you to hop on and off during a two week period.

Savonlinna castle © Creative Commons / Matt Mattila

Helsinki-Savonlinna, Finland

To see the best Finland has to offer, head east from Helsinki to the Finnish Lakeland region, one of the most beautiful areas in the whole of the country. The trip to Savonlinna in the heart of the Lake Saimaa district takes just under five hours, with a change at Parikkala, cutting through dense forests and passing countless lakes.

Savonlinna itself is a picturesque town. It's home to one of northern Europe's most dramatic castles, and hosts a popular opera festival in July. Book your accommodation well in advance if you plan to travel around this time. As with everywhere else in Scandinavia, trains are modern, comfortable and on time, but in Finland they are also very cheap, making this an ideal way to explore the country.

Further info:

Norwegian Railway: www.nsb.no
Flåm Railway: www.flaamsbana.no
Inlandsbanan: www.grandnordic.se
Finnish Railway: www.vr.fi

Author: Marie Peyre

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

World Cup 2010: England match guide


Follow England on their pursuit to South Africa World Cup 2010 glory and discover more about the match locations, from where to celebrate wins to sightseeing highlights.


Match 1: England Vs USA

Date: 12 June 2010
Kick off time: 2030
Location: Rustenberg, South Africa

Rustenburg Nature Reserve, South Africa © CC James Temple

Set in the heart of the savannah bushland, Rustenberg is nestled at the foothills of the breathtaking Magaliesburg Mountains. The internationally renowned Sun City resort is on the doorstep. Billed as South Africa's premier holiday resort visitors can marvel at the stunning view over the sprawling savannah and majestic mountains with a hot air balloon ride, cool off at the Valley of Waves water park or explore the resort's very own jungle.

The Rustenburg Nature Reserve lies on the edge of the Magaliesberg Protected Natural Environment and is dominated by the rocky ridges of the Magaliesberg, with sightings of roaming kudu, antelopes, leopards and over 230 species of birds all common.

Where to celebrate: Make like the locals and celebrate a win in true African style at a Lucky's Tavern for traditional music and festivities or head to Castle Corner, Heystek Street, and party with fellow World Cup supporters at the English-style pub.

Explore further afield:
Take a short drive to the energetic city of Johannesburg and explore the city's highlights, including vibrant Soweto, Gold Reef City Theme Park and Casino, the Johannesburg Zoo and Military History Museum, the culturally alive Newtown district, and the excellent thought-provoking Apartheid Museum.

Match 2: England Vs Algeria

Cape Point, South Africa © Creative Commons / scubageek

Date: 18 June 2010
Kick off: 2030
Location: Cape Town, South Africa

With its stunning bay location, surrounded by wild, white-sand beaches and set against the canvas of Table Mountain, Cape Town is one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

There is a vast amount to see and do in Cape Town, however, the compact centre is easy to navigate. One of the most iconic attractions is the defining landmark of Table Mountain. The cable car to the summit takes just six minutes and rotates through 360 degrees on the way up ensuring everyone gets to take in the entire view. Once at the top explore the mountain on a walking trail, or marvel at the view from one of the look-out points.

It might be South Africa's winter in June, but with many sunny days it is still perfect for exploring Cape Town's spectacular beaches. The stretch known as Millionaire's Row is the place to celeb spot, and the four beaches in Clifton are some of the city's finest.

Head further out to Cape Point, for amazing views of the city. Have lunch in the Two Oceans Restaurant, sat high above the crashing waves of False Bay.

Where to celebrate
: Cape Town is a party town, which attracts frequent visits from international DJs and a lively crowd, so there are plenty of bars and clubs to choose from for post-World Cup match revelry. Head to Mama Afrika, 178 Long Street, for great local food and live music in a rowdy atmosphere - you might even get to bang the bongos in celebration.

Explore further afield:
Take a drive to the nearby township of Gugulethu and try some authentic South African food at a popular Mzoli braai place (barbecue) and sample some Umngqusho Nenyama (samp and beans with stew). Those with more time on their hands can make the most of the five days until England's third match in Port Elizabeth and take the scenic drive along the Garden Route. Stop off at the quaint town of Knysna and visit the local elephant sanctuary where you can feed the gentle giants and watch them roam free, and explore the many local townships and luring vineyards en route.

Match 3: England Vs Slovenia

Date: 23 June 2010
Kick off: 1600
Location: Nelson Mandela Bay / Port Elizabeth, South Africa

Addo Elephant National Park, Port Elizabeth © Creative Commons / exfordy

Nelson Mandela Bay / Port Elizabeth is surrounded by immaculate beaches and boasts wonderful Victorian architecture and the city also has the richest collection of Art Nouveau buildings in South Africa - making for a pretty base from which to explore the local 5-star game lodges, the sunshine coast, with its rugged unspoiled beaches and Hogsback, which is rumored to be the inspiration for the Lord of the Rings books.

As the country's second-oldest city, Nelson Mandela Bay / Port Elizabeth has a plethora of historical attractions. Follow the popular Donkin Heritage Walking Trail, which takes in a whopping 47 attractions, including the King George VI art gallery, an open-air theatre, a conservatory, numerous churches and an opera house.

If you want to experience Africa's wildlife, the Kragga Kamma Game Park is only 30 minutes from the city centre and is home to rhinos, buffalo, cheetah, giraffe and zebra - all roaming free in natural surroundings with guided driving tours a must-do.

Where to celebrate
: The city has a vibrant nightlife and the popular Gondwana Lounge situated on the beachfront is a popular spot and sets the scene for a joyous evening of World Cup celebration.

Explore further afield
: An hour's drive away, Port Alfred offers some breathtaking views and further on East London is a great spot for enjoying lunch at a beachfront restaurant. If you want to see what rural life in Africa is all about then head to Dutywa and listen to the wonderful stories of the locals, or take in the village of Qunu which is home to the Nelson Mandela Museum and just minutes from the hero's home.

Situated about 40km (25 miles) north of the city centre, Ado National Park is home to around 450 elephants and offers an unrivalled opportunity to view the 'big seven' - buffalo, elephant, lion, leopard and rhino, plus the Southern Right Whale and Great White Shark.

Port Elizabeth Stadium © www.nelsonmandelabay.gov.za

South Africa World Cup 2010 tickets:

It is still possible to nab a pass to the footy action, with tickets being released in phases during these dates:

5 December 2009 - 22 January 2010
9 February - 7 April 2010
15 April - 11 July 2010

To buy your World Cup 2010 tickets visit www.fifa.com.

Author: Caroline Cullern

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Plane-free ski holidays


If spending hours stuck queuing at the airport with two six-foot planks stuck to your back doesn’t sound like the perfect start to your ski holiday, swap the plane for a train for a hassle-free journey.

Whichever European resort you choose to visit, your journey will probably begin with a high-speed connection from Ebbsfleet, Ashford or London St Pancras. Just make sure that when you're watching the European countryside roll by with a glass of bubbly in hand, spare a thought for the unlucky folks eating cardboard food with knees around their head thousands of feet above you.

Culture rich: Innsbruck, Austria

Any ski destination that has hosted the Winter Olympics (as Innsbruck did in 1964 and 1976) obviously has some powdery pedigree, but there's much more to be done in Innsbruck than simply gliding around on a pair of skis. Innsbruck offers miles of ski runs for different levels of ability, and 25 of the surrounding village sites are easily accessible by bus. Aside from the slopes, the city itself is well worth a visit. The Tyrolean capital boasts stunning architecture and wonderful Christmas markets that light up the old town or Marktplatz. Anyone who feels like venturing into the surrounding countryside on foot rather than by ski can enjoy the 96km (60 miles) of hiking trails surrounding the city.

St Anton is top for apres ski © Creative Commons / SarahMcD

Party time: St Anton, Austria

The perfect destination for people who want to spend as much time in the bar as on the slopes, St Anton has become a prime destination for skiers who want to burn the candle at both ends. There are a huge number of bars and clubs, such as the Krazy Kangeruh and Mooserwirt. You don't even have to wait until the evening to get the party started; things get going here in the mid-afternoon and don't stop until the early hours. If the late nights start to wear you down and you need a little help traversing the slopes in the early morning, a horse drawn sleigh ride into the stunning Ferwall valley may be the perfect tonic (just skip the gin).

Chamonix has great off piste ski © Creative Commons / Per Edin

Extreme ski: Chamonix, France

Chamonix's reputation as a world class resort is well warranted. The five resorts of Brevent, Flegere, Grands Montets/Argentiere, Les Houches and Le Tour each have their own characteristics, and experienced skiers looking for exciting drops and swooping curves will not be disappointed. Chamonix's lenient ski patrol pretty much allows you to ski anything you can find, so once you have shared the lifts with the crowds, if you're willing and confident to venture forward alone, before long you'll find a thrilling stretch of snow to call your own. Alternatively, if you want the experience without running the risk of being stuck on a mountain top overnight, then off-piste guides can be easily hired in Chamonix.

Bardonecchia has breathtaking scenery © Creative Commons / BlogfromItaly

Ski zen: Bardonecchia, Italy

Italy's Bardonecchia ski resort is perfect for skiers looking for a more laid-back experience. The terrain will generally suit beginner and intermediate skiers, but Bardonecchia is close to a host of different resorts in both Italy and France for the best of both worlds. Hire a car and immerse yourself in the stunning surrounding scenery, knowing that whenever you decide to return, a gentle skiing challenge and a quiet evening of contemplation await. There are rarely queues for lifts during the week, but be warned, the resort attracts many weekenders from Turin.

St Moritz is best for winter sports © Creative Commons / René (and then some)

Snow fun: St Moritz, Switzerland

St Moritz is a resort as much about image as it is about skiing. Glitzy and glamorous, it offers a range of weird and wonderful activities that you won't find at your average ski destination. If the skiing becomes a little routine, test your skills in a relaxing round of winter golf. Or perhaps you've always wanted a game of cricket in the snow, or even a game of polo? Make sure you put on the skis regularly or you might forget why you're here. Even if it does slip you mind, the stunning array of gourmet food and regular music festivals will more than make up for it.

Author: Jonathan Moore

Seven days in Buenos Aires


A cacophony of speeding cars, brimming restaurants and passionate people, Buenos Aires is not a city for the fainthearted. After 12 months of world-class beef and dimly-lit tango halls, Ruth-Ellen Davis gives her insider's guide to a fun-filled first week in the Argentine capital.

Monday

Pretty Palermo is one of Buenos Aires' most tourist-friendly barrios (neighbourhoods). After a morning wandering around the boutiques of Palermo Soho, pick up some empanadas (savoury Latin American pastries) and take the 30-minute stroll to Palermo Park for a picnic in the rose garden.

After some sunny lounging, head for a hot stone massage at chic Home Hotel's spa (book in advance) followed by a freshly made cocktail at their poolside bar.

Finish your first BA day with the bustling and greasy delights of an Argentine parilla (meat restaurant). Palermo's El Trapiche, Paraguay 5599, is a reliable favourite; as well as thick slabs of prime Argentine beef, the more adventurous can try morcilla (blood sausage), chinchulines (intestines) and molleja (sweetbread).

Tuesday

Recoleta statue © Creative Commons/Bruno Girin

Tick off one of the city's most popular attractions: La Recoleta Cemetery. This veritable village of tombs is found in the exclusive barrio of Recoleta, and marks the resting place of some of the country's most prestigious figures including Argentina's famous first lady, Eva Perón.

Tuck into a hearty steak sandwich at nearby La Biela, Avenida Quintana 600. Skip dessert and head to Un Altra Volta, Avenida Santa Fe 1826, for a double scoop of their mouthwatering dulce de leche flavour ice cream.

After lunch, explore Recoleta's high-end shops amid the grand French architecture. As evening draws in, hop in a cab to Milion, Paraná 1048 - a wonderfully ostentatious bar and restaurant in a converted mansion - and chill out with a frozen basil daiquiri or three.

Wednesday

Spend a relaxed morning in one of the city's many cafés, enjoying a café con leche (coffee with milk) and as many medialunas (Argentinian croissant) as you can muster.

Head to the MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires), Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, for a tranquil afternoon taking in exciting works from a variety of Latin American artists and international names; Andy Warhol's Mr America exhibition runs until 9 February 2010.

Thursday

Casa Rosada © Ruth-Ellen Davis

Dive into the hustle and bustle of Florida, Microcentro's pedestrianised shopping precinct, lined with cut-price clothing and cheap leather goods.

Once you've purchased enough five peso T-shirts to last a lifetime, pop into the Richmond Café, Florida 468, once a popular haunt of Buenos Aires' literary and political elite, including the late writer Jorge Luis Borges.

Afterwards, take the short walk to the Casa Rosada, Avenida de Mayo, from whose balcony Eva Perón famously rallied the masses (and 50 years on Madonna sang Don't Cry for Me Argentina in Evita). Every Thursday at 1530, the Madres de Plaza de Mayo - a group of mothers whose children vanished during the military dictatorship of 1976-1983 - walk around the Plaza for 30 minutes, before giving a short speech.

Spend the evening appreciating mouthfuls of Argentina's famously fine wine with an organised wine tasting; Anuva Wines can arrange tastings at restaurants and hotels, as well as in their own cellars.

Friday

Take a tour to La Boca. This colourful barrio has bags of personality, with a continual stream of tourists flocking to see the painted rainbow of houses and arty souvenirs of the pedestrian street Caminito.

La Boca is also home to La Bonbonera - the stadium of BA's most famous team, Boca Juniors. An Argentinian football game is an exhilerating experience, but tourists are targets for pickpockets and crowds can get pretty rowdy. It is wise to book through agencies such as Plan BA who can provide an escort, or larger tour agencies such as Tangol. Whoever you book through, don't leave without picking up a choripan (chorizo sausage in a bread roll) for the authentic experience.

Wind down with an evening's stroll along Puerto Madero's pristine waterfront, and swing by the Faena Hotel and Universe for the city's best tango show, Fridays 2030. After the show, hang out in the fabulous Library Bar; in Argentinian terms, this is a rather pricey place for a drink, but, when surrounded by rich leather, deep red velvet and glittering chandeliers, it seems a pretty justified splash out.

Saturday

Tango in Buenos Aires © Creative Commons/David P

After a deservedly lengthy lie in, take a deep green breath at the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (Avenida Tristán Achaval Rodríguez 1550). This nature reserve is popular with tourists and locals a like, and boast lakes, tall grasses and picnickers a plenty.

For a buzzing Buenos Aires Saturday night, either opt for a milonga (tango hall) in San Telmo, where couples of all ages dance cheek-to-cheek right through the night, or, for something more up tempo, party til dawn at one of the super clubs down on Costanera Norte. Pacha, with its terrace and views over the river, is one of the most popular. Clubs don't generally get going until about 2am.

Sunday

The Sunday market on San Telmo street Defensa is a colourful and lively affair, with stalls piled high with antiques, clothing, jewellery, traditional Argentine leather products, paintings and a whole jumble of other items. Street musicians add to the convivial atmosphere and cafés spill out onto the pavement, providing many a spot to people watch.

After heading back to the hotel room for a little nap, finish the week in true Argentine style, with a hearty slab of steak and several glasses of red wine at San Telmo parilla Desnivel, Defensa 858.

Insider tip to Buenos Aires: Keep a good pocketful of change as coins are scarce. Smaller shops will give change in sweets or even refuse to serve you if they don't have enough change. Break larger bank notes at supermarkets and restaurants.

Author: Ruth-Ellen Davis

23 November 2009

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Vancouver 2010: The essential Winter Olympics guide


Seven years may seem a long time to wait for the 2016 Olympics in samba-fuelled Rio. However, if you're more of a snow than a sun worshipper, the Winter Olympics are a mere four months away. Better still, the action takes place against the jaw-dropping beauty of Canada's third largest city, Vancouver.

Vancouver was rated the world's most liveable city in 2009 by The Economist. Nearby Whistler, where several events are planned, has just been ranked North America's number one ski resort by readers of Skiing magazine for the 13th year in a row.

With such impressive credentials, there's no doubt that western Canada offers an outstanding destination for athletes and visitors alike. Susie Henderson helps you to make the most of the 2010 Games.

When do the Games take place?

The Olympic Games will be held from 12-28 February, while the Paralympic Games will take place from 12-21 March.

Getting there

Air Canada and British Airways both offer direct flights from London Heathrow. Canadian Affair operates charter flights from Gatwick, Manchester and Glasgow. A cheaper option is taking an indirect flight via the USA. BA also has daily flights to Seattle, a three-hour drive from Vancouver.

Much of the action will take place in Whistler ski resort © Tourism Whistler / Leanner Rathkelly

Where to stay

Vancouver has seen a handful of glitzy hotels springing up in the past couple of years, including the impressive Shangri-La, part of the city's tallest skyscraper, and the Fairmont Pacific Rim, which opens in January.

How do I buy tickets?

In the UK, tickets are available for the Olympics from Sportsworld and for the Paralympics from Travel Places. Both can also organise flights and accommodation.

Any gold prospects?

The halcyon days of Torvill and Dean's gold-medal-winning Bolero performance may be a distant memory, but don't rule the Brits out.

Scotland's victory over Canada in the 2009 World Championships suggests the men's curling team should put in a strong performance. Watch out for Zoe Gillings, who's currently ranked fifth in the world in snowboard cross. Nicola Minichiello and Gillian Cooke won gold at the 2009 Bobsleigh World Championships, while British women have excelled in recent bob skeleton competitions.

What's going on where?

Vancouver (and nearby Richmond and Cypress Mountain) will host the opening and closing ceremonies, ice hockey, curling, figure skating, speed skating, snowboarding and freestyle skiing.

Whistler will host the alpine and cross-country skiing, biathlon, ski jumping, bobsleigh, skeleton and luge events.

BC Place Stadium will host the opening ceremony © Tourism Vancouver

Any other action?

Aside from sporting events, a Cultural Olympiad will showcase an enormous range of Canadian and international artists in a series of concerts, plays, performances and exhibitions from 22 January-21 March.

Even if you don't have tickets, you can experience the buzz of the Games at a collection of live sites. Vancouver will have two sites with large screens, live entertainment and special events; expect things to really kick off on hockey nights. In Richmond, south of the city, the O Zone will feature concerts and an outdoor ice rink.

In Whistler, giant TV screens strung up around the village will broadcast live coverage of events. Each afternoon, you'll be able to listen to bands or check out art exhibitions and interactive shows. Nightly entertainment will range from skiers jumping through rings of fire to a light show, which organisers claim will rival the Northern Lights. All these events are free.

You can also check out the national and sponsor pavilions. Holland House in Richmond's O Zone is said to be the one to party at, having gained legendary status at previous Olympics.

Getting around

TransLink operates an excellent public transit system in Vancouver, combining buses, SkyTrain (a light rail service) and SeaBus. If you hold a ticket to an event, you'll be able to access all public transport free of charge on that day.

The scenic Sea-to-Sky Highway between Vancouver and Whistler has been widened and improved. There will be no public parking in Whistler, so unless your accommodation comes with spaces, you'll need to board one of the frequent Olympic shuttle buses from Vancouver.

Within Whistler, local buses will connect the venues, neighbourhoods and ski lifts, while the 35km (22-mile) Valley Trail will be cleared for walkers and cross-country skiers.

Will I be able to visit Vancouver's attractions and ski in Whistler during the Games?

Yes, Vancouver attractions will be open to visitors and 90% of Whistler Blackcomb will remain open for skiing and snowboarding, so you never know - you might end up sharing a chairlift with an Olympian.

Most of Blackcomb Park will remain open to visitors during the Games © Dano Pendygrasse

Can I experience the venues for myself?

While you may not be able to race Bode Miller on the downhill course or shred the halfpipe with Shaun White, you can follow in their tracks if you decide to visit outside the Olympics.

Test your mettle on the Dave Murray Downhill race course in Whistler or attempt a backside 180 in the halfpipe at Cypress Mountain.

Another highlight is Whistler Olympic Park, set in the spectacular Callaghan Valley, with 55km (34 miles) of cross-country ski trails. You can also try your hand at biathlon or ride the lift to the top of the ski jumps.

Berlin: A city united


Two decades after the collapse of the Berlin Wall, the German capital is no longer a city of two halves. With a raft of 20th anniversary celebrations planned to mark this historic event, there's no better time to get under the skin of this fascinating city break destination.

It was late in the evening of 9 November 1989 when Guenter Schabowski, a spokesman for the East German government was wrapping up a hastily-convened, televised press conference. The German Democratic Republic was in turmoil. Following mass public demonstrations, the future of the Communist state was in grave doubt.

Schabowski announced that visas would be freely granted to those wanting to travel outside or leave the country. Faced with a torrent of incredulous questions about the new visa timing, the spokesman mumbled: "As far as I know - as of now".

Within minutes the news had flashed around Germany and the world. Thousands of East Germans thronged the streets up to the barrier, which had split the city in two since 1961. At checkpoints, confused military personnel, who were used to firing on sight anyone attempting to cross the tangle of concrete and barbed wire, were simply overwhelmed. By the early hours of the morning, they gave up trying to control the jubilant crowds and opened the gates into the West. The Berlin Wall had fallen and with it, the tottering edifice of Communism in Europe finally collapsed into the dust.

Today, little actually remains of the Wall, except for small, preserved stretches. However, visitors can trace its course via a continuous, cobbled indented marker, set in the city's pavements and roads. Interactive guides, markers and billboards also dot the route.

Tourists at Checkpoint Charlie © Creative Commons / G. O'Graffer

In many ways, the sense of contrasts that dominated life under the Wall still prevail. Buildings in parts of the East resemble large, Soviet-style ‘wedding-cake' blocks, interspersed with smaller cobbled streets and pre-war apartment buildings. Towards the West, roads and streets are far more conventionally European; leafy, architecturally diverse and of a far more eclectic vintage than their Eastern counterparts.

There are also plenty of noteworthy museums detailing life pre-1989. They include: the famous Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, Friedrichstrasse, Mitte, where a replica guardhouse offers an essential photo-opportunity; the tongue-in-cheek, quirky DDR Museum on the banks of the Spree and the fascinating Stasi Museum, housed in the former Ministry for State Security in Lichtenberg.

As Berlin celebrates the 20th anniversary of the ‘Peaceful Revolution', Arsalan Mohammad gives a lowdown of some of the best events to watch out for this autumn.

The Festival of Freedom

On 9 November, the Festival of Freedom will take place at the iconic Brandenburg Gate. Beginning with an open-air concert at Pariser Platz, the highlight of the evening will be a spectacular ‘fall of the Wall', in which 1,000, 2.5m-high (8ft) foam dominoes, decorated by Berlin youngsters, will be symbolically toppled over. Organisers are expecting a huge turnout for what's set to be a rather special and memorable evening.

An open-air concert is planned at Bradenburg Gate © Creative Commons / raebrune

Exhibition, Peaceful Revolution 1989/90

Alexanderplatz, the rather grim central square in the heart of former East Berlin, will host a vast, open-air exhibition featuring bilingual information panels, photographs and memorabilia from activists, students and citizens who helped to change history in the divided city. Ends November 14.

STASI - The Exhibition

The sinister secret police who kept tabs on the East German population were always synonymous with the culture of oppression and totalitarian control. This exhibition at the Information and Documentation Centre BSTU, Wall Street 38, highlights some of the ways in which the Stasi ensured that dissent and rebellion were kept under check - at any cost. Ends December 31.

Art of Two Germanys/Cold War Cultures

The Deutsches Historisches Museum, Unter den Linden, will feature a comprehensive snapshot of post-war German art viewed through a political, social, and historical lens. This exhaustive collection contrasts works made by artists on both sides of the political divide, ranging from Hans Haacke, Heinz Mack, Sigmar Polke, Raffael Rheinsberg, Gerhard Richter, and Dieter Roth, as well as a number of videos and performance-based works. Ends January 10.

Scenes and Signs of a Fall. The Berlin Wall focused by Photographers

A piece of the Berlin Wall

A fascinating selection of photographs documenting the chaotic days immediately following the fall of the Wall opened this week at Max Liebermann Haus, Pariser Platz 7. Memorable highlights include images of bustling thoroughfares and squares captured as desolate strips of wasteland. Ends December 6.

BERLIN 89/09. Art between a Search for Clues and Utopia

The seismic changes that have rocked in Berlin over the past two decades provide inspiration for this multi-media exhibition at Berlinische Galerie, Landesmuseum für Moderne Kunst, Fotografie und Architektur, Alte Jakobstraße 124 - 128. Featuring paintings, photography and installations, it offers a detailed, fascinating account of the city's transformation from political schizophrenia to a 21st century European capital. Ends January 31.

Singapore by night


With the return of the night time Formula 1 Grand Prix to Singapore this month, and an increasing array of high-end restaurants, gleaming shopping malls and electric night spots making it one of the hottest destinations in Asia, here is our inside guide on where to best appreciate the beautiful island after dark.

True, you can be fined for jaywalking, dropping gum or forgetting to flush the toilet, but if you can respect certain rules, you'll find that modern-day Singapore is all about fun, especially after dark.

In 2008, the country hosted the first night-time Formula One race, and a continual stream of the world's top music acts, plus a multitude of hip new bars, casinos, theme parks, art galleries, concert halls and stunning restaurants make night time in Singapore a thoroughly exciting place to be.

Singapore River

Singapore's thriving nightlife scene is concentrated along the Singapore River; the lively bars at Boat Quay are a magnet for westerners.

Also worth checking out are the pubs and restaurants along Circular Road, which runs parallel to the river. The street is lined with Singapore's distinctive shophouses: colonial-era buildings with a 1.5m (5ft) covered walkway in front that contain both shops and residential areas.

Around the bend of the river the pedestrianised zone Clarke Quay comprises four streets of historic warehouses now converted into bars, nightclubs and restaurants. All types of cuisine can be found here, from Indian fusion to Mexican tapas, alongside a number of inventive bars. Check out Clinic, where the furniture is recycled from a hospital, and Lunar bar, which is decked out in modern Chinese pop art.

Taste the high life

Chinatown © Jon Yeomans

The high-rise downtown area next to the Singapore River is home to numerous stunning hotels, the most famous being Raffles; sipping Singapore Slings (gin, cherry brandy and Benedictine, if you feel like whipping up a DIY version) in the Long Bar at Raffles is an obligatory pilgrimage for any tourist.

Alternatively, check out the bar of cavernous Mandarin Oriental, which boasts stunning views of Marina Bay, or take in the elegant surroundings of the Swissotel Merchant Court, located in the main entertainment district.

Melting pot

Singapore is a melting pot of cultures. To see another side of the city, pay a visit to the bars and restaurants of Chinatown, a short walk from the centre, or enjoy the rough and tumble of Little India and Kampong Glam, the Malay district.

With these three cultures blending into one nation, it's no surprise that some of the world's best Chinese, Indian, Malaysian and fusion food is found here, and it's definitely worth sampling the fare in the bustling food courts or ‘hawker centres', where even fast meals can be healthy, tasty and kind on the wallet.

Singapore's most famous dish is chilli crab, invented in the 1950s: succulent crab cooked in spicy gravy to be eaten with your fingers. Another popular meal is Malaysian satay: chunks of marinated chicken or pork cooked over a charcoal fire and served in peanut sauce. Wash it down with a bottle of the ubiquitous local brew, Tiger Beer.

Shopping and spinning

Singapore Flyer © Jon Yeomans

If you fancy a break from filling your stomach, you can indulge in Singapore's other great pastime: shopping. No stay would be complete without a trip to Orchard Road, a 7 km (4.5-mile) boulevard of pristine shopping malls. Many stores are open until 2200, while the eclectic Mustafa Centre in Little India serves customers around the clock.

Relax after a tiring evening's shop by hopping on Singapore's newest attraction the Singapore Flyer - a giant wheel which, at 165m (541ft) high, is taller than the London Eye. The flyer is open until 2230 and offers fantastic views of the marina and downtown area.

Walk on the wild side

One of Singapore's finest attractions - day or night - is the Night Safari. This nature reserve is home to all manner of animals from lions and tigers to elephants and rhino.

The entrance - all wooden gates and burning torches - puts you in mind of Jurassic Park, and, once inside, visitors can walk or ride the tram around enclosures carved out of the island's natural rainforest watching creatures going about their business under simulated moonlight, completely unaware that they are being observed.

Singapore Grand Prix

Singapore held the first night time Formula One Grand Prix in September 2008, with 5kms (3.1 miles) of smooth course snaking around Marina Bay under specially designed lights. The thrilling event - which saw Fernando Alonso storm up the field from 15th place to claim victory - returns to Singapore on 27 September 2009, and the terrific atmosphere and enthusiasm of the locals make it one of the best times to visit.

Action at sea: cruising 21st-century style


Cruises are undergoing something of a renaissance. Growing numbers of younger cruisers means on-board activities and shore excursions are becoming more active, flexible and fun. Jane Archer explores the burgeoning world of the 21st-century cruiser.

Who says cruising is for old people? Big cruise ships these days are packed with activities that are great whether you are five or 55. Children can have hours of fun in the kids' clubs and dipping in and out of the swimming pools, and there are huge and luxurious spas and solariums where adults can relax and be pampered.

But there is so much more for the 21st-century cruiser: rock-climbing walls, ice-skating rinks and water parks, celebrity-run speciality restaurants in which you can dine like the stars and adrenaline-packed shore excursions for fun days in port.

Water Works © Carnival Cruise Lines

On-board activities

Not so long ago, napkin-folding classes were considered the perfect way to keep passengers occupied when they had had enough of looking out to sea. There are still sessions on how to be the perfect hostess, and many ships have cookery demonstrations and wine-tasting sessions, but such gentile occupations are fast giving way to much more active ways to pass the days at sea.

Royal Caribbean International's Voyager-class ships (for instance - Voyager of the Seas, Liberty of the Seas, Independence of the Seas) have rock-climbing walls and ice-skating rinks, but also a FlowRider, a powerful wave you can surf on, and water parks with fountains, jets and even a lazy river.

It's all terrific fun, but things get even better at the end of 2009, when Royal Caribbean launches Oasis of the Seas. This is a huge ship, holding 5,400 passengers. As well as all the features above (and actually there are two walls and two FlowRiders), there is a zip wire - get harnessed up and slide on a wire across the top of the ship - and the first carousel at sea.

Norwegian Cruise Line has 10-pin bowling alleys and Wii Sports games on its newest ships - Norwegian Gem and Norwegian Jade. Its next new ship, Norwegian Epic, launching in July 2010, will have the first ice bar at sea. Passengers will be kitted out in fur coats, gloves and hats, and be able to drink ice-cold vodkas in freezing temperatures.

Cirque Ventura © P&O Cruises

Water slides are a favourite with Carnival Cruise Lines and Italian line Costa Cruises. On new ship Carnival Dream, launching in September 2009, there will be a four-deck-high water slide and a two-lane racing slide.

Ocean Village has juggling and trapeze workshops to keep kids of all ages entertained on days at sea; P&O Cruises has bungee trampolines on deck 19 of Ventura, offering the ultimate view across the sea if you dare look up; guests on Cunard's Queen Victoria can learn sword fighting.

If all that sounds too energetic, Princess Cruises has the ultimate behind-the-scenes tour on Ruby Princess, letting guests visit the engine control room, laundry, food stores, bridge and theatre, and even climb into the funnel. On sea days, Holland America Line holds galley tours lasting about 30 minutes: passengers can pass through the kitchens, watching the chefs in action and tasting on the way.

A taste of celebrity

Nobu Matsuhis © Crystal Cruises

Traditionally, evening dining on a cruise ship meant eating at the same time every night, sharing with other passengers on a pre-allocated table. Passengers can still do that, but cruise lines these days are increasingly flexible, offering alternative ‘eat-when-you-like' options in the main restaurant.

More than that, most cruise lines have speciality restaurants that cost extra - the food served in the dining room is included in the cruise price. Princess Cruises has the Crown Grill, serving steaks and other cuts of meat, and also Sabatini's, where guests munch their way through 12 or so courses, with antipasti, pizzas, pastas, salads and soups all on the menu. Norwegian Cruise Line ships have up to 10 restaurants, with French bistros, Mexican diners and sushi bars included in the mix.

Recently several cruise lines have gone another step further and signed up celebrity chefs to run their speciality restaurants.

Gary Rhodes has restaurants on P&O Cruises' Arcadia (Arcadian Rhodes) and Oriana (Oriana Rhodes), serving up food best described as "Brit with a twist", while Marco Pierre White ("contemporary with an Italian essence") has designed the menus served in the White Room on P&O's newest ship, Ventura.

Ocean Village has The Bistro, on the ships Ocean Village and Ocean Village Two, serving menus designed by James Martin (expect "British with a hint of the Med"). Martin was voted the favourite celebrity chef at sea in a Cruise Critic poll in March 2009.

Arcadian Rhodes © P&O Cruises

Sushi king Nobuyuki ‘Nobu' Matsuhisa (serving "Japanese with a European twist) has a restaurant and sushi bar on Crystal Cruises' two ships, Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony.

Aldo Zilli ("classic Italian") has teamed up with Thomson Cruises and has a speciality Italian restaurant on Thomson Celebration.

Several cruise lines have celebrity cruises, when top-name chefs come on board to host cookery demonstrations and cook up sumptuous meals.

Celebrity chef Raymond Blanc, Martin Burge, head chef at Whatley Manor in the Cotswolds, and Colin Bussey, former executive head chef at Gleneagles Hotel, have cruised with Silversea Cruises; in October 2009 Anton Mosimann will be on board Silversea's Silver Wind. Jacques Pépin, chef to three French presidents and executive chef with Oceania Cruises, often cruises with Oceania. His next cruise is in August.

Active shore excursions

St Basil's Cathedral, Moscow © www.123rf.com / Sergey Khachatryan

Cruise lines still sell sedate coach excursions, allowing older passengers to see the sights without too much effort, but as cruisers get younger, so the ships' tours are a lot more exciting.

Ocean Village has some of the best days out - canyoning in the South of France (this involves donning a wetsuit and clambering over boulders as you make your way down a fast-flowing river), and swinging, sliding and zipwiring between trees in Corsica. Ocean Village ships also carry a fleet of bikes and there are city tours by pedal power for anyone feeling fit.

Zip-wiring through trees in a harness has become a hugely popular excursion. Princess Cruises offers it in Alaska and Jamaica, where it is combined with a thrilling bobsled ride. Princess also has river-tubing in Grenada.

Carnival Cruise Lines has a survival adventure in Belize. Passengers will learn to make fire without matches and cook jungle-style. Celebrity Cruises has helicopter flightseeing trips over Hawaii, with the chance to see an active volcano.

Passengers with a few thousand pounds to spare visiting Livorno on a P&O Cruises' ship can hire a Ferrari F430 for a day; a cheaper option is a bike ride in Alicante. It's mostly downhill, great fun and there's a slap-up local lunch after to celebrate.

Windstar Cruises has a new selection of tours in Europe, including helicopter rides over Monte Carlo and Mount Etna, speedboat rides in Croatia and Portofino and underground cave trekking in Koper, Slovenia.

You can take thrilling speedboat rides around the Stockholm and Helsinki archipelagos; go into the network of tunnels outside Ho Chi Minh City where the Viet Cong lived during the Vietnam war; even pilot a Russian MiG fighter over the skies above Moscow. All these are offered by Crystal Cruises, to those who want the ultimate thrill.

Top family holidays


The time has come to start planning the annual summer escape, but with kids in tow it's not always easy to keep everyone entertained. Here are some of our top picks for the best breaks for the whole family.

Sail away

© Nonstop Sail

Family bonding doesn't get more necessary than when trying to work together. Nonstop Sail offers family breaks, with courses to achieve a Royal Yacht Association Competent Crew qualification by the end or more relaxed jaunts around the West Country coastline. With canoes onboard, families can take a break from skippering and explore the nearby rivers and waterways.

Tree house trip: France

© Keycamp

What child hasn't dreamt of spending the night hiding out in a tree house? Well, now they can at one of the six Keycamp sites dotted across France. Accommodation may be nestled in the tree canopy but they are a far cry from the shack-like offerings many might remember from their childhood. Each tree house has four single beds and a double with a large decked terrace and a toilet. There is also a fully equipped tent at the base of the tree hide-out with fridge, freezer and cooking facilities. The sites currently offering the Tarzan retreats are Dol De Bretagne (Brittany), Carnac Grand Métairie (Brittany), Berny Rivière (near Paris), La Forêt (Vendée), Le Château des Marais (Loire) and Le Val de Bonnal (Jura).

Hit the water: Llangollen Canal

Llangollen Canal © 123rf.com

Kids and adults will be kept entertained on a narrowboat holiday with Hoseasons. The Llangollan Canal is one of the most picturesque waterways in the UK and also offers plenty of action to keep nippers amused. A highlight of the route is the Chirk Aqueduct which is followed by a long dark tunnel and continues on past the 600-year-old Chirk Castle. However, it only puts you in good stead for the 38m (127ft) Pontcysyllte Aqueduct that soars at dizzying heights above the River Dee valley.

Cool kids city: Berlin

© Legoland Discovery Centre

Currently one of the hottest cities for adult escapes and nightlife junkies, Berlin shouldn't be overlooked for its fantastic child-friendly appeal. For a start Kindercity (kindercity.de) has a 6,000 sq metre play and learning centre. Or take them to Legoland Discovery Centre with its miniature Berlin and medieval castles. At the AquaDom & Sea Life little ones can get up close to around 4,000 creatures of the deep and at Magic Mountain they can climb about. There are also adventure playgrounds, skateboard parks, city beaches and puppet and theatre shows if they are still feeling energetic.

Get active: Wales

© 123rf.com

The Clyne Farm Activity Centre in Wales is the prime place for those with energetic children and a love of the great outdoors. Various outdoor pursuits are on offer, including a guided walking tour of the coastal waterfalls and pools as well as the chance to get down and dirty in the muddiest assault course in the world. There is also horse riding, archery, climbing, canoeing, surfing, quad biking and much more besides. Accommodation comes in the form of old stone cottages, fully equipped as a home from home - an added benefit when holidaying with children.

Beach break: Crete

© 123rf.com

Thomson's Sensatori Resort in Crete is five-star luxury but at affordable family-friendly prices. The various pools are a star attraction, with a special family zone and children's splash pool, water jets, a tropical treehouse for little monkeys to climb over as well as an adults-only pool with giant outdoor hot tub for parents to relax in. Children can hang at the Play House and Sully Science Lab and for the evening there are movies and sleepovers so adults can enjoy a meal or two alone or head to the luxury spa. Tiny tots will be taken care of by nursing staff with UK-accredited childcare qualifications and can even borrow a mobile phone for complete peace of mind.

City break: Tunis


Sensual, sub-tropical Tunis, just under three hours' flying time from our shores, is a great place for a city break. Tunisia's capital combines French influence with its Berber heritage and North African setting.

Although radiating French flavour in its Parisian-style boulevards where flower stalls and newspaper kiosks rub shoulders with pavement cafes, patisseries and an assorted mix of colonial and modern buildings (a legacy of years of French rule), you will never doubt for a minute that you are in North Africa. The spice-scented souks, calls of the muezzin and dry desert heat are sure to stir your soul.

Souks and spices

Tunis market © Creative Commons / liketearsintherain

For more than a whiff of ancient intrigue, don't miss a visit to the well-preserved medieval Medina (old town). A froth of white domes, minarets and terraces, it's a walled city-within-a-city where frenzied commerce has taken place for 12 centuries. This labyrinth of cool, sun-blanched narrow streets, an invasive tumult of impressions, seethes with vitality, the air smelling of a hundred pungent spices and freshly-baked bread. This teeming maze of furtive passageways is bursting with hammams (public bathhouses), mosques and tiny workshops where sun-leathered gnarled old men wearing red felt hats called ‘chechias' busily operate sewing machines.

This Aladdin's cave of stalls, each fronted by a smooth talking stall holder with a line in patter that would put many a used car salesman to shame, is festooned with thousands of twinkling fairylights. A mind-boggling array of goods, in a tapestry of hues as rich as a Scotsman's brogue, spill onto the cobblestones. Everything you could possibly want is here, along with plenty that you wouldn't.

An abundance of powerfully potent perfumes with dubious names like ‘Romance in the Souk' and ‘Come Hither at Midnight' probably fall into the latter category. Gaudy Berber jewellery and brightly coloured carpets are displayed alongside brass pots, leather bags, antique lanterns, incense burners, musical camels and sparkling, pointy-toed slippers. Although the hassle factor is relatively low key, haggling is the name of the game. Start by offering a third of the asking price and off you go - it isn't too arduous, and if you are determined and play it well, you can come away with a bargain.

Besides being a massive marketplace, the Medina is also a fully functioning community with residential areas, mausoleums, cafes, schools, libraries and mosques. The serene, enclosed Zeytouna mosque, also called the Great Mosque, is the city's largest and the only one open to non-muslims who may enter the courtyard though not the prayer hall. Built in 732AD, it flourished from the 13th century onwards as an important Islamic university.

Bursting with culture and history, it is not surprising that UNESCO designated this medieval Arab city a World Heritage site. When darkness falls, the Medina's silence is astonishing - the whole place is spookily deserted with only skinny stray cats wandering its alleyways.

A market stall in Tunis © Gilly Pickup

Cafe culture

Exit the Medina from the eastern side, cross through the Porte de France and you are back in the 21st century, in elegant, tree-lined Avenue Habib Bourguiba, the city's most important thoroughfare, named after the country's former long-serving president. This is a bustling place lined with banks, shops, restaurants and the ‘see and be seen' Café de Paris, a great place to sit and watch the world go by.

Tunis has a vibrant cafe culture with modern European-style cafes sitting alongside traditional cafes, both offering tastebud-tingling choices. Mingle with the locals as you sip fine Turkish coffee, or try gunpowder tea steeped in strong mint, topped with pine nuts and served in small glasses - Tunisians often add dried salted chickpeas to theirs. Since there is no such thing as a smoking ban here, you can puff fragrant tobacco through a chicha (water pipe) to your heart's content if you wish.

Culinary delights

Traditional Tunisian door © Creative Commons / Tijani59

The city's Dar restaurants are where to go for a taste of authentic cuisine in lavish surroundings. They are former palaces or grand houses that are traditionally decorated and usually slightly hidden away from public view. In the centre of the Medina, there are two Dars both tiled to the hilt and worthy of featuring in The Thousand and One Nights. Dar el Jeld (www.dareljeld.tourism.tn) and Dar el Kheiratat (www.darelkheirat.com) both offer three-fork dining (the highest gastronomic rating) in cool surroundings with atmospheric live music.

Bursting with flavour, Tunisian cuisine blends sophisticated French styles and Arab spice with an interesting smattering of Andalucían, Italian and Turkish influences. The emphasis is firmly on fresh ingredients and typical dishes are sturdy though fiery. Couscous, Tunisia's national dish, a main course stew of chicken, fish or vegetables, is on menus everywhere, while you can't leave Tunis without savouring a bumper bowl of seriously fabulous chorba, a spicy barley soup with chick peas and vegetables in a rich tomato stock. Desserts tend to be very sweet with one of the most popular being ‘kab el ghazal', a horn-shaped pastry stuffed with almonds.

In all but the cheapest restaurants, customers are welcomed with complimentary fresh bread, olives and harissa (a concentrate of garlic and red chilli pepper). Mechouia is a ubiquitous Tunisian dish of roasted vegetables mashed with tuna and eggs, while something you might approach more cautiously is a brik, lightly cooked egg wrapped in a hot envelope of filo pastry with the addition perhaps of tuna or prawns. Although tasty, it is hard to eat without dribbling egg down your front because tradition decrees briks must be eaten by hand.

Excursions from the city

Carthage © www.123rf.com / Irina Igumnova

Now a prosperous suburb of Tunis, Carthage was once capital of the Punic Empire. It was unfortunate that first the Romans then the Vandals did a pretty thorough job of destroying it, with the result that little remains of the once-great city from where Hannibal set off with his elephants to conquer Rome. Interesting archeological sites among the wildflower-strewn ruins include the remains of the Antonin Baths, one of the largest bath houses built during the Roman Empire, with no-expense-spared gigantic cool room, Olympic-sized swimming pool, separate rooms for cold and hot baths, sauna and exercise area.

The Carthage Museum at Mount Byrsa is also worth a visit. It has some fascinating exhibits, including an ancient set of dice, clay masks designed to ward off evil spirits and a baby's drinking bottle from 200BC.And while you are in history mode pop into the Bardo Museum, a magnificent villa once home to the country's movers and shakers that now houses one of the world's largest and finest collections of beautifully restored Punic and Roman mosaics. Here you can gawp over scenes of battling sea gods, cavorting nymphs and a Mediterranean Sea full of glistening fish and scary sea monsters. Look out, too, for imposing statues rescued from Carthage and masses of busts of - it has to be said - rather unattractive Roman emperors.