Thursday, November 19, 2009

Vancouver 2010: The essential Winter Olympics guide


Seven years may seem a long time to wait for the 2016 Olympics in samba-fuelled Rio. However, if you're more of a snow than a sun worshipper, the Winter Olympics are a mere four months away. Better still, the action takes place against the jaw-dropping beauty of Canada's third largest city, Vancouver.

Vancouver was rated the world's most liveable city in 2009 by The Economist. Nearby Whistler, where several events are planned, has just been ranked North America's number one ski resort by readers of Skiing magazine for the 13th year in a row.

With such impressive credentials, there's no doubt that western Canada offers an outstanding destination for athletes and visitors alike. Susie Henderson helps you to make the most of the 2010 Games.

When do the Games take place?

The Olympic Games will be held from 12-28 February, while the Paralympic Games will take place from 12-21 March.

Getting there

Air Canada and British Airways both offer direct flights from London Heathrow. Canadian Affair operates charter flights from Gatwick, Manchester and Glasgow. A cheaper option is taking an indirect flight via the USA. BA also has daily flights to Seattle, a three-hour drive from Vancouver.

Much of the action will take place in Whistler ski resort © Tourism Whistler / Leanner Rathkelly

Where to stay

Vancouver has seen a handful of glitzy hotels springing up in the past couple of years, including the impressive Shangri-La, part of the city's tallest skyscraper, and the Fairmont Pacific Rim, which opens in January.

How do I buy tickets?

In the UK, tickets are available for the Olympics from Sportsworld and for the Paralympics from Travel Places. Both can also organise flights and accommodation.

Any gold prospects?

The halcyon days of Torvill and Dean's gold-medal-winning Bolero performance may be a distant memory, but don't rule the Brits out.

Scotland's victory over Canada in the 2009 World Championships suggests the men's curling team should put in a strong performance. Watch out for Zoe Gillings, who's currently ranked fifth in the world in snowboard cross. Nicola Minichiello and Gillian Cooke won gold at the 2009 Bobsleigh World Championships, while British women have excelled in recent bob skeleton competitions.

What's going on where?

Vancouver (and nearby Richmond and Cypress Mountain) will host the opening and closing ceremonies, ice hockey, curling, figure skating, speed skating, snowboarding and freestyle skiing.

Whistler will host the alpine and cross-country skiing, biathlon, ski jumping, bobsleigh, skeleton and luge events.

BC Place Stadium will host the opening ceremony © Tourism Vancouver

Any other action?

Aside from sporting events, a Cultural Olympiad will showcase an enormous range of Canadian and international artists in a series of concerts, plays, performances and exhibitions from 22 January-21 March.

Even if you don't have tickets, you can experience the buzz of the Games at a collection of live sites. Vancouver will have two sites with large screens, live entertainment and special events; expect things to really kick off on hockey nights. In Richmond, south of the city, the O Zone will feature concerts and an outdoor ice rink.

In Whistler, giant TV screens strung up around the village will broadcast live coverage of events. Each afternoon, you'll be able to listen to bands or check out art exhibitions and interactive shows. Nightly entertainment will range from skiers jumping through rings of fire to a light show, which organisers claim will rival the Northern Lights. All these events are free.

You can also check out the national and sponsor pavilions. Holland House in Richmond's O Zone is said to be the one to party at, having gained legendary status at previous Olympics.

Getting around

TransLink operates an excellent public transit system in Vancouver, combining buses, SkyTrain (a light rail service) and SeaBus. If you hold a ticket to an event, you'll be able to access all public transport free of charge on that day.

The scenic Sea-to-Sky Highway between Vancouver and Whistler has been widened and improved. There will be no public parking in Whistler, so unless your accommodation comes with spaces, you'll need to board one of the frequent Olympic shuttle buses from Vancouver.

Within Whistler, local buses will connect the venues, neighbourhoods and ski lifts, while the 35km (22-mile) Valley Trail will be cleared for walkers and cross-country skiers.

Will I be able to visit Vancouver's attractions and ski in Whistler during the Games?

Yes, Vancouver attractions will be open to visitors and 90% of Whistler Blackcomb will remain open for skiing and snowboarding, so you never know - you might end up sharing a chairlift with an Olympian.

Most of Blackcomb Park will remain open to visitors during the Games © Dano Pendygrasse

Can I experience the venues for myself?

While you may not be able to race Bode Miller on the downhill course or shred the halfpipe with Shaun White, you can follow in their tracks if you decide to visit outside the Olympics.

Test your mettle on the Dave Murray Downhill race course in Whistler or attempt a backside 180 in the halfpipe at Cypress Mountain.

Another highlight is Whistler Olympic Park, set in the spectacular Callaghan Valley, with 55km (34 miles) of cross-country ski trails. You can also try your hand at biathlon or ride the lift to the top of the ski jumps.

Berlin: A city united


Two decades after the collapse of the Berlin Wall, the German capital is no longer a city of two halves. With a raft of 20th anniversary celebrations planned to mark this historic event, there's no better time to get under the skin of this fascinating city break destination.

It was late in the evening of 9 November 1989 when Guenter Schabowski, a spokesman for the East German government was wrapping up a hastily-convened, televised press conference. The German Democratic Republic was in turmoil. Following mass public demonstrations, the future of the Communist state was in grave doubt.

Schabowski announced that visas would be freely granted to those wanting to travel outside or leave the country. Faced with a torrent of incredulous questions about the new visa timing, the spokesman mumbled: "As far as I know - as of now".

Within minutes the news had flashed around Germany and the world. Thousands of East Germans thronged the streets up to the barrier, which had split the city in two since 1961. At checkpoints, confused military personnel, who were used to firing on sight anyone attempting to cross the tangle of concrete and barbed wire, were simply overwhelmed. By the early hours of the morning, they gave up trying to control the jubilant crowds and opened the gates into the West. The Berlin Wall had fallen and with it, the tottering edifice of Communism in Europe finally collapsed into the dust.

Today, little actually remains of the Wall, except for small, preserved stretches. However, visitors can trace its course via a continuous, cobbled indented marker, set in the city's pavements and roads. Interactive guides, markers and billboards also dot the route.

Tourists at Checkpoint Charlie © Creative Commons / G. O'Graffer

In many ways, the sense of contrasts that dominated life under the Wall still prevail. Buildings in parts of the East resemble large, Soviet-style ‘wedding-cake' blocks, interspersed with smaller cobbled streets and pre-war apartment buildings. Towards the West, roads and streets are far more conventionally European; leafy, architecturally diverse and of a far more eclectic vintage than their Eastern counterparts.

There are also plenty of noteworthy museums detailing life pre-1989. They include: the famous Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, Friedrichstrasse, Mitte, where a replica guardhouse offers an essential photo-opportunity; the tongue-in-cheek, quirky DDR Museum on the banks of the Spree and the fascinating Stasi Museum, housed in the former Ministry for State Security in Lichtenberg.

As Berlin celebrates the 20th anniversary of the ‘Peaceful Revolution', Arsalan Mohammad gives a lowdown of some of the best events to watch out for this autumn.

The Festival of Freedom

On 9 November, the Festival of Freedom will take place at the iconic Brandenburg Gate. Beginning with an open-air concert at Pariser Platz, the highlight of the evening will be a spectacular ‘fall of the Wall', in which 1,000, 2.5m-high (8ft) foam dominoes, decorated by Berlin youngsters, will be symbolically toppled over. Organisers are expecting a huge turnout for what's set to be a rather special and memorable evening.

An open-air concert is planned at Bradenburg Gate © Creative Commons / raebrune

Exhibition, Peaceful Revolution 1989/90

Alexanderplatz, the rather grim central square in the heart of former East Berlin, will host a vast, open-air exhibition featuring bilingual information panels, photographs and memorabilia from activists, students and citizens who helped to change history in the divided city. Ends November 14.

STASI - The Exhibition

The sinister secret police who kept tabs on the East German population were always synonymous with the culture of oppression and totalitarian control. This exhibition at the Information and Documentation Centre BSTU, Wall Street 38, highlights some of the ways in which the Stasi ensured that dissent and rebellion were kept under check - at any cost. Ends December 31.

Art of Two Germanys/Cold War Cultures

The Deutsches Historisches Museum, Unter den Linden, will feature a comprehensive snapshot of post-war German art viewed through a political, social, and historical lens. This exhaustive collection contrasts works made by artists on both sides of the political divide, ranging from Hans Haacke, Heinz Mack, Sigmar Polke, Raffael Rheinsberg, Gerhard Richter, and Dieter Roth, as well as a number of videos and performance-based works. Ends January 10.

Scenes and Signs of a Fall. The Berlin Wall focused by Photographers

A piece of the Berlin Wall

A fascinating selection of photographs documenting the chaotic days immediately following the fall of the Wall opened this week at Max Liebermann Haus, Pariser Platz 7. Memorable highlights include images of bustling thoroughfares and squares captured as desolate strips of wasteland. Ends December 6.

BERLIN 89/09. Art between a Search for Clues and Utopia

The seismic changes that have rocked in Berlin over the past two decades provide inspiration for this multi-media exhibition at Berlinische Galerie, Landesmuseum für Moderne Kunst, Fotografie und Architektur, Alte Jakobstraße 124 - 128. Featuring paintings, photography and installations, it offers a detailed, fascinating account of the city's transformation from political schizophrenia to a 21st century European capital. Ends January 31.

Singapore by night


With the return of the night time Formula 1 Grand Prix to Singapore this month, and an increasing array of high-end restaurants, gleaming shopping malls and electric night spots making it one of the hottest destinations in Asia, here is our inside guide on where to best appreciate the beautiful island after dark.

True, you can be fined for jaywalking, dropping gum or forgetting to flush the toilet, but if you can respect certain rules, you'll find that modern-day Singapore is all about fun, especially after dark.

In 2008, the country hosted the first night-time Formula One race, and a continual stream of the world's top music acts, plus a multitude of hip new bars, casinos, theme parks, art galleries, concert halls and stunning restaurants make night time in Singapore a thoroughly exciting place to be.

Singapore River

Singapore's thriving nightlife scene is concentrated along the Singapore River; the lively bars at Boat Quay are a magnet for westerners.

Also worth checking out are the pubs and restaurants along Circular Road, which runs parallel to the river. The street is lined with Singapore's distinctive shophouses: colonial-era buildings with a 1.5m (5ft) covered walkway in front that contain both shops and residential areas.

Around the bend of the river the pedestrianised zone Clarke Quay comprises four streets of historic warehouses now converted into bars, nightclubs and restaurants. All types of cuisine can be found here, from Indian fusion to Mexican tapas, alongside a number of inventive bars. Check out Clinic, where the furniture is recycled from a hospital, and Lunar bar, which is decked out in modern Chinese pop art.

Taste the high life

Chinatown © Jon Yeomans

The high-rise downtown area next to the Singapore River is home to numerous stunning hotels, the most famous being Raffles; sipping Singapore Slings (gin, cherry brandy and Benedictine, if you feel like whipping up a DIY version) in the Long Bar at Raffles is an obligatory pilgrimage for any tourist.

Alternatively, check out the bar of cavernous Mandarin Oriental, which boasts stunning views of Marina Bay, or take in the elegant surroundings of the Swissotel Merchant Court, located in the main entertainment district.

Melting pot

Singapore is a melting pot of cultures. To see another side of the city, pay a visit to the bars and restaurants of Chinatown, a short walk from the centre, or enjoy the rough and tumble of Little India and Kampong Glam, the Malay district.

With these three cultures blending into one nation, it's no surprise that some of the world's best Chinese, Indian, Malaysian and fusion food is found here, and it's definitely worth sampling the fare in the bustling food courts or ‘hawker centres', where even fast meals can be healthy, tasty and kind on the wallet.

Singapore's most famous dish is chilli crab, invented in the 1950s: succulent crab cooked in spicy gravy to be eaten with your fingers. Another popular meal is Malaysian satay: chunks of marinated chicken or pork cooked over a charcoal fire and served in peanut sauce. Wash it down with a bottle of the ubiquitous local brew, Tiger Beer.

Shopping and spinning

Singapore Flyer © Jon Yeomans

If you fancy a break from filling your stomach, you can indulge in Singapore's other great pastime: shopping. No stay would be complete without a trip to Orchard Road, a 7 km (4.5-mile) boulevard of pristine shopping malls. Many stores are open until 2200, while the eclectic Mustafa Centre in Little India serves customers around the clock.

Relax after a tiring evening's shop by hopping on Singapore's newest attraction the Singapore Flyer - a giant wheel which, at 165m (541ft) high, is taller than the London Eye. The flyer is open until 2230 and offers fantastic views of the marina and downtown area.

Walk on the wild side

One of Singapore's finest attractions - day or night - is the Night Safari. This nature reserve is home to all manner of animals from lions and tigers to elephants and rhino.

The entrance - all wooden gates and burning torches - puts you in mind of Jurassic Park, and, once inside, visitors can walk or ride the tram around enclosures carved out of the island's natural rainforest watching creatures going about their business under simulated moonlight, completely unaware that they are being observed.

Singapore Grand Prix

Singapore held the first night time Formula One Grand Prix in September 2008, with 5kms (3.1 miles) of smooth course snaking around Marina Bay under specially designed lights. The thrilling event - which saw Fernando Alonso storm up the field from 15th place to claim victory - returns to Singapore on 27 September 2009, and the terrific atmosphere and enthusiasm of the locals make it one of the best times to visit.

Action at sea: cruising 21st-century style


Cruises are undergoing something of a renaissance. Growing numbers of younger cruisers means on-board activities and shore excursions are becoming more active, flexible and fun. Jane Archer explores the burgeoning world of the 21st-century cruiser.

Who says cruising is for old people? Big cruise ships these days are packed with activities that are great whether you are five or 55. Children can have hours of fun in the kids' clubs and dipping in and out of the swimming pools, and there are huge and luxurious spas and solariums where adults can relax and be pampered.

But there is so much more for the 21st-century cruiser: rock-climbing walls, ice-skating rinks and water parks, celebrity-run speciality restaurants in which you can dine like the stars and adrenaline-packed shore excursions for fun days in port.

Water Works © Carnival Cruise Lines

On-board activities

Not so long ago, napkin-folding classes were considered the perfect way to keep passengers occupied when they had had enough of looking out to sea. There are still sessions on how to be the perfect hostess, and many ships have cookery demonstrations and wine-tasting sessions, but such gentile occupations are fast giving way to much more active ways to pass the days at sea.

Royal Caribbean International's Voyager-class ships (for instance - Voyager of the Seas, Liberty of the Seas, Independence of the Seas) have rock-climbing walls and ice-skating rinks, but also a FlowRider, a powerful wave you can surf on, and water parks with fountains, jets and even a lazy river.

It's all terrific fun, but things get even better at the end of 2009, when Royal Caribbean launches Oasis of the Seas. This is a huge ship, holding 5,400 passengers. As well as all the features above (and actually there are two walls and two FlowRiders), there is a zip wire - get harnessed up and slide on a wire across the top of the ship - and the first carousel at sea.

Norwegian Cruise Line has 10-pin bowling alleys and Wii Sports games on its newest ships - Norwegian Gem and Norwegian Jade. Its next new ship, Norwegian Epic, launching in July 2010, will have the first ice bar at sea. Passengers will be kitted out in fur coats, gloves and hats, and be able to drink ice-cold vodkas in freezing temperatures.

Cirque Ventura © P&O Cruises

Water slides are a favourite with Carnival Cruise Lines and Italian line Costa Cruises. On new ship Carnival Dream, launching in September 2009, there will be a four-deck-high water slide and a two-lane racing slide.

Ocean Village has juggling and trapeze workshops to keep kids of all ages entertained on days at sea; P&O Cruises has bungee trampolines on deck 19 of Ventura, offering the ultimate view across the sea if you dare look up; guests on Cunard's Queen Victoria can learn sword fighting.

If all that sounds too energetic, Princess Cruises has the ultimate behind-the-scenes tour on Ruby Princess, letting guests visit the engine control room, laundry, food stores, bridge and theatre, and even climb into the funnel. On sea days, Holland America Line holds galley tours lasting about 30 minutes: passengers can pass through the kitchens, watching the chefs in action and tasting on the way.

A taste of celebrity

Nobu Matsuhis © Crystal Cruises

Traditionally, evening dining on a cruise ship meant eating at the same time every night, sharing with other passengers on a pre-allocated table. Passengers can still do that, but cruise lines these days are increasingly flexible, offering alternative ‘eat-when-you-like' options in the main restaurant.

More than that, most cruise lines have speciality restaurants that cost extra - the food served in the dining room is included in the cruise price. Princess Cruises has the Crown Grill, serving steaks and other cuts of meat, and also Sabatini's, where guests munch their way through 12 or so courses, with antipasti, pizzas, pastas, salads and soups all on the menu. Norwegian Cruise Line ships have up to 10 restaurants, with French bistros, Mexican diners and sushi bars included in the mix.

Recently several cruise lines have gone another step further and signed up celebrity chefs to run their speciality restaurants.

Gary Rhodes has restaurants on P&O Cruises' Arcadia (Arcadian Rhodes) and Oriana (Oriana Rhodes), serving up food best described as "Brit with a twist", while Marco Pierre White ("contemporary with an Italian essence") has designed the menus served in the White Room on P&O's newest ship, Ventura.

Ocean Village has The Bistro, on the ships Ocean Village and Ocean Village Two, serving menus designed by James Martin (expect "British with a hint of the Med"). Martin was voted the favourite celebrity chef at sea in a Cruise Critic poll in March 2009.

Arcadian Rhodes © P&O Cruises

Sushi king Nobuyuki ‘Nobu' Matsuhisa (serving "Japanese with a European twist) has a restaurant and sushi bar on Crystal Cruises' two ships, Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony.

Aldo Zilli ("classic Italian") has teamed up with Thomson Cruises and has a speciality Italian restaurant on Thomson Celebration.

Several cruise lines have celebrity cruises, when top-name chefs come on board to host cookery demonstrations and cook up sumptuous meals.

Celebrity chef Raymond Blanc, Martin Burge, head chef at Whatley Manor in the Cotswolds, and Colin Bussey, former executive head chef at Gleneagles Hotel, have cruised with Silversea Cruises; in October 2009 Anton Mosimann will be on board Silversea's Silver Wind. Jacques Pépin, chef to three French presidents and executive chef with Oceania Cruises, often cruises with Oceania. His next cruise is in August.

Active shore excursions

St Basil's Cathedral, Moscow © www.123rf.com / Sergey Khachatryan

Cruise lines still sell sedate coach excursions, allowing older passengers to see the sights without too much effort, but as cruisers get younger, so the ships' tours are a lot more exciting.

Ocean Village has some of the best days out - canyoning in the South of France (this involves donning a wetsuit and clambering over boulders as you make your way down a fast-flowing river), and swinging, sliding and zipwiring between trees in Corsica. Ocean Village ships also carry a fleet of bikes and there are city tours by pedal power for anyone feeling fit.

Zip-wiring through trees in a harness has become a hugely popular excursion. Princess Cruises offers it in Alaska and Jamaica, where it is combined with a thrilling bobsled ride. Princess also has river-tubing in Grenada.

Carnival Cruise Lines has a survival adventure in Belize. Passengers will learn to make fire without matches and cook jungle-style. Celebrity Cruises has helicopter flightseeing trips over Hawaii, with the chance to see an active volcano.

Passengers with a few thousand pounds to spare visiting Livorno on a P&O Cruises' ship can hire a Ferrari F430 for a day; a cheaper option is a bike ride in Alicante. It's mostly downhill, great fun and there's a slap-up local lunch after to celebrate.

Windstar Cruises has a new selection of tours in Europe, including helicopter rides over Monte Carlo and Mount Etna, speedboat rides in Croatia and Portofino and underground cave trekking in Koper, Slovenia.

You can take thrilling speedboat rides around the Stockholm and Helsinki archipelagos; go into the network of tunnels outside Ho Chi Minh City where the Viet Cong lived during the Vietnam war; even pilot a Russian MiG fighter over the skies above Moscow. All these are offered by Crystal Cruises, to those who want the ultimate thrill.

Top family holidays


The time has come to start planning the annual summer escape, but with kids in tow it's not always easy to keep everyone entertained. Here are some of our top picks for the best breaks for the whole family.

Sail away

© Nonstop Sail

Family bonding doesn't get more necessary than when trying to work together. Nonstop Sail offers family breaks, with courses to achieve a Royal Yacht Association Competent Crew qualification by the end or more relaxed jaunts around the West Country coastline. With canoes onboard, families can take a break from skippering and explore the nearby rivers and waterways.

Tree house trip: France

© Keycamp

What child hasn't dreamt of spending the night hiding out in a tree house? Well, now they can at one of the six Keycamp sites dotted across France. Accommodation may be nestled in the tree canopy but they are a far cry from the shack-like offerings many might remember from their childhood. Each tree house has four single beds and a double with a large decked terrace and a toilet. There is also a fully equipped tent at the base of the tree hide-out with fridge, freezer and cooking facilities. The sites currently offering the Tarzan retreats are Dol De Bretagne (Brittany), Carnac Grand Métairie (Brittany), Berny Rivière (near Paris), La Forêt (Vendée), Le Château des Marais (Loire) and Le Val de Bonnal (Jura).

Hit the water: Llangollen Canal

Llangollen Canal © 123rf.com

Kids and adults will be kept entertained on a narrowboat holiday with Hoseasons. The Llangollan Canal is one of the most picturesque waterways in the UK and also offers plenty of action to keep nippers amused. A highlight of the route is the Chirk Aqueduct which is followed by a long dark tunnel and continues on past the 600-year-old Chirk Castle. However, it only puts you in good stead for the 38m (127ft) Pontcysyllte Aqueduct that soars at dizzying heights above the River Dee valley.

Cool kids city: Berlin

© Legoland Discovery Centre

Currently one of the hottest cities for adult escapes and nightlife junkies, Berlin shouldn't be overlooked for its fantastic child-friendly appeal. For a start Kindercity (kindercity.de) has a 6,000 sq metre play and learning centre. Or take them to Legoland Discovery Centre with its miniature Berlin and medieval castles. At the AquaDom & Sea Life little ones can get up close to around 4,000 creatures of the deep and at Magic Mountain they can climb about. There are also adventure playgrounds, skateboard parks, city beaches and puppet and theatre shows if they are still feeling energetic.

Get active: Wales

© 123rf.com

The Clyne Farm Activity Centre in Wales is the prime place for those with energetic children and a love of the great outdoors. Various outdoor pursuits are on offer, including a guided walking tour of the coastal waterfalls and pools as well as the chance to get down and dirty in the muddiest assault course in the world. There is also horse riding, archery, climbing, canoeing, surfing, quad biking and much more besides. Accommodation comes in the form of old stone cottages, fully equipped as a home from home - an added benefit when holidaying with children.

Beach break: Crete

© 123rf.com

Thomson's Sensatori Resort in Crete is five-star luxury but at affordable family-friendly prices. The various pools are a star attraction, with a special family zone and children's splash pool, water jets, a tropical treehouse for little monkeys to climb over as well as an adults-only pool with giant outdoor hot tub for parents to relax in. Children can hang at the Play House and Sully Science Lab and for the evening there are movies and sleepovers so adults can enjoy a meal or two alone or head to the luxury spa. Tiny tots will be taken care of by nursing staff with UK-accredited childcare qualifications and can even borrow a mobile phone for complete peace of mind.

City break: Tunis


Sensual, sub-tropical Tunis, just under three hours' flying time from our shores, is a great place for a city break. Tunisia's capital combines French influence with its Berber heritage and North African setting.

Although radiating French flavour in its Parisian-style boulevards where flower stalls and newspaper kiosks rub shoulders with pavement cafes, patisseries and an assorted mix of colonial and modern buildings (a legacy of years of French rule), you will never doubt for a minute that you are in North Africa. The spice-scented souks, calls of the muezzin and dry desert heat are sure to stir your soul.

Souks and spices

Tunis market © Creative Commons / liketearsintherain

For more than a whiff of ancient intrigue, don't miss a visit to the well-preserved medieval Medina (old town). A froth of white domes, minarets and terraces, it's a walled city-within-a-city where frenzied commerce has taken place for 12 centuries. This labyrinth of cool, sun-blanched narrow streets, an invasive tumult of impressions, seethes with vitality, the air smelling of a hundred pungent spices and freshly-baked bread. This teeming maze of furtive passageways is bursting with hammams (public bathhouses), mosques and tiny workshops where sun-leathered gnarled old men wearing red felt hats called ‘chechias' busily operate sewing machines.

This Aladdin's cave of stalls, each fronted by a smooth talking stall holder with a line in patter that would put many a used car salesman to shame, is festooned with thousands of twinkling fairylights. A mind-boggling array of goods, in a tapestry of hues as rich as a Scotsman's brogue, spill onto the cobblestones. Everything you could possibly want is here, along with plenty that you wouldn't.

An abundance of powerfully potent perfumes with dubious names like ‘Romance in the Souk' and ‘Come Hither at Midnight' probably fall into the latter category. Gaudy Berber jewellery and brightly coloured carpets are displayed alongside brass pots, leather bags, antique lanterns, incense burners, musical camels and sparkling, pointy-toed slippers. Although the hassle factor is relatively low key, haggling is the name of the game. Start by offering a third of the asking price and off you go - it isn't too arduous, and if you are determined and play it well, you can come away with a bargain.

Besides being a massive marketplace, the Medina is also a fully functioning community with residential areas, mausoleums, cafes, schools, libraries and mosques. The serene, enclosed Zeytouna mosque, also called the Great Mosque, is the city's largest and the only one open to non-muslims who may enter the courtyard though not the prayer hall. Built in 732AD, it flourished from the 13th century onwards as an important Islamic university.

Bursting with culture and history, it is not surprising that UNESCO designated this medieval Arab city a World Heritage site. When darkness falls, the Medina's silence is astonishing - the whole place is spookily deserted with only skinny stray cats wandering its alleyways.

A market stall in Tunis © Gilly Pickup

Cafe culture

Exit the Medina from the eastern side, cross through the Porte de France and you are back in the 21st century, in elegant, tree-lined Avenue Habib Bourguiba, the city's most important thoroughfare, named after the country's former long-serving president. This is a bustling place lined with banks, shops, restaurants and the ‘see and be seen' Café de Paris, a great place to sit and watch the world go by.

Tunis has a vibrant cafe culture with modern European-style cafes sitting alongside traditional cafes, both offering tastebud-tingling choices. Mingle with the locals as you sip fine Turkish coffee, or try gunpowder tea steeped in strong mint, topped with pine nuts and served in small glasses - Tunisians often add dried salted chickpeas to theirs. Since there is no such thing as a smoking ban here, you can puff fragrant tobacco through a chicha (water pipe) to your heart's content if you wish.

Culinary delights

Traditional Tunisian door © Creative Commons / Tijani59

The city's Dar restaurants are where to go for a taste of authentic cuisine in lavish surroundings. They are former palaces or grand houses that are traditionally decorated and usually slightly hidden away from public view. In the centre of the Medina, there are two Dars both tiled to the hilt and worthy of featuring in The Thousand and One Nights. Dar el Jeld (www.dareljeld.tourism.tn) and Dar el Kheiratat (www.darelkheirat.com) both offer three-fork dining (the highest gastronomic rating) in cool surroundings with atmospheric live music.

Bursting with flavour, Tunisian cuisine blends sophisticated French styles and Arab spice with an interesting smattering of Andalucían, Italian and Turkish influences. The emphasis is firmly on fresh ingredients and typical dishes are sturdy though fiery. Couscous, Tunisia's national dish, a main course stew of chicken, fish or vegetables, is on menus everywhere, while you can't leave Tunis without savouring a bumper bowl of seriously fabulous chorba, a spicy barley soup with chick peas and vegetables in a rich tomato stock. Desserts tend to be very sweet with one of the most popular being ‘kab el ghazal', a horn-shaped pastry stuffed with almonds.

In all but the cheapest restaurants, customers are welcomed with complimentary fresh bread, olives and harissa (a concentrate of garlic and red chilli pepper). Mechouia is a ubiquitous Tunisian dish of roasted vegetables mashed with tuna and eggs, while something you might approach more cautiously is a brik, lightly cooked egg wrapped in a hot envelope of filo pastry with the addition perhaps of tuna or prawns. Although tasty, it is hard to eat without dribbling egg down your front because tradition decrees briks must be eaten by hand.

Excursions from the city

Carthage © www.123rf.com / Irina Igumnova

Now a prosperous suburb of Tunis, Carthage was once capital of the Punic Empire. It was unfortunate that first the Romans then the Vandals did a pretty thorough job of destroying it, with the result that little remains of the once-great city from where Hannibal set off with his elephants to conquer Rome. Interesting archeological sites among the wildflower-strewn ruins include the remains of the Antonin Baths, one of the largest bath houses built during the Roman Empire, with no-expense-spared gigantic cool room, Olympic-sized swimming pool, separate rooms for cold and hot baths, sauna and exercise area.

The Carthage Museum at Mount Byrsa is also worth a visit. It has some fascinating exhibits, including an ancient set of dice, clay masks designed to ward off evil spirits and a baby's drinking bottle from 200BC.And while you are in history mode pop into the Bardo Museum, a magnificent villa once home to the country's movers and shakers that now houses one of the world's largest and finest collections of beautifully restored Punic and Roman mosaics. Here you can gawp over scenes of battling sea gods, cavorting nymphs and a Mediterranean Sea full of glistening fish and scary sea monsters. Look out, too, for imposing statues rescued from Carthage and masses of busts of - it has to be said - rather unattractive Roman emperors.

Mediterranean beaches


With the promise of warm weather, cheap flights and delicious food it's no wonder that the Mediterranean attracts throngs of holidaying Brits to its sunny shores each year. See our top picks for best Med beaches.

Agios Gordios, Corfu

Agios Gordios © Creative Commons

Although it has earned a noisy reputation in recent years, mainly in the lively resort of ‘kicking' Kavos, much of Corfu still remains tranquil and picturesque. Set on the west coast, Agios Gordios is a rural gem set away from the busy tourist hordes. Still retaining much of its traditional Greek charm, bougainvillea-clad houses painted in pretty pastel hues wind down the hillside towards to the long stretch of sandy beach. The beach itself has been granted a Blue Flag for cleanliness and safety, making it an ideal spot for some family fun. Adults will also be entertained with the numerous watersports on offer such, as banana boats and jet skis.

Barcelona

Port Olimpic beach © Creative Commons

The Spanish city might not be the first resort that springs to mind when considering a beach holiday, but with one of the best urban beaches in the world at Port Olímpic, Barcelona perfectly combines city energy and beach relaxation. The stretch of golden sand also comes alive after dark when the area's bars and clubs attract party revellers. For a touch of seclusion, head down the coast to Lloret de Mar for the sheltered white-sand stretch, or if it's an all-over tan you are looking for then the private cove at Caldes d'Estracs is a naturist hotspot. Those with nippers should head to the stretch of beach to the north of the city, from La Barceloneta to the seawater pool at Forum, as they are shallow with low waters - perfect for kiddies to paddle in.

Alghero, Sardinia

Alghero © 123rf.com

Alghero is one of the most popular resorts on Sardinia, yet retains the charm and atmosphere of a working fishing village. It manages to cater for all tastes, with cultural sites and plenty of amenities. It is less glitzy than the busy Costa Smeralda on the north coast of the island, but has plenty to offer those wanting sun, sand and sea - with clean beaches, and a lively clutch of bars and restaurants. The medieval old town is the most picturesque on Sardinia, and has a fascinating Catalan heritage: a legacy of centuries of Aragon rule.

Santorini

Santorini © 123rf.com

The volcanic island of Santorini is one of Greece's most glamorous island destinations. The most upmarket resorts are Fira and Oia, which are perched upon the reddish-black cliffs plummeting into the deep-blue waters of the caldera, and offer sophisticated boutique hotels and gourmet dining. Moneyed travellers, including a smattering of celebrities, favour the glamorous west coast, while the east coast caters for those on a lower budget. For many people, the quintessential Santorini experience is watching the sunset from Oia, an evening ritual during high season, when crowds applause as the sun sinks into the horizon.

Corsica

Corsica © 123rf.com

This vine-filled island rewards visitors with sun-kissed beaches and rugged mountains, as well as verdant pastures and dense forest. At the height of summer, warm Mediterranean waters, balmy evenings and beaches from which a host of watersports can be enjoyed are the main attraction. Some of Europe's least polluted seas see scuba divers make a beeline for the island, with adventure activities like rock climbing and canyoning also available to keep the adrenaline pumping. Corsica is blessed with everything from small rocky coves and beaches strewn with multicoloured pebbles to those replete with fine white sand. Bustling resort beaches, complete with watersports centres are balanced out by tranquil, almost deserted spots. Choosing where to soak up the sun's rays, or where to take a dip in the bath-temperature sea is a matter of personal preference. Beaches consistently rated as some of the island's best (and some of the finest in Europe) include Barcaggio, Ostriconi, Palombaggia and Saint Giulia.

Top tennis holidays


With summer, Wimbledon and the French Open just around the corner, now is the time to brush up your backhand, perfect your swing, or even take up the game. Check out our volley of tennis holidays.

Coaching from a champion

Don Carlos Leisure Resort & Spa, Marbella, Spain
If the next best thing to being a tennis champion is to play with one, then check out the Sunball Tennis Academy.

Tennis legend, and French Open finalist, Magnus Larsson will be organising master classes and tournaments from 13-20 September on this five-star resort's seven clay and two Rebound Ace courts. Last year, Pat Cash and Joachim Johansson did the honours.

The rest of the year, the academy's multilingual professionals will put you through your paces. Choose from three- and five-day group courses (maximum of four players of similar playing ability) or take 45-minute private lessons.

Matches and tournaments, where you'll be able to challenge the pros, take place during the summer.

Afterwards, relax over a jug of sangria in the club house or act professional and tune your racket.

A three-night break costs from €383 including breakfast and four hours' court hire. Group lessons (lasting five hours) cost from €119 per adult (€85 per child); private lessons €45.

Website: www.hoteldoncarlos.com/en/sports_and_leisure/tennis_academy

Top spin and tapas

La Manga Club © www.lamangaclub.com

La Manga, Murcia, Spain
Whether you are a beginner or an experienced club player, you'll find a course to suit you at La Manga, the doyenne of tennis resorts.

Directed by Juan Ros, who coached Spanish number one player, Conchita Martinez, it has 28 clay, artificial grass and hard surface courts and a team of teaching professionals.

Practise your shots on the popular 10-hour group course (two hours a day), analyse your game at a tactical clinic or by video, or opt for an intensive weekend if time is short. Tournaments and exhibition matches are held weekly.

If you still have energy or have had your fill of tennis, play golf on the resort's three 18-hole Championship courses, or enjoy a multitude of other sports.

Restaurants offer everything from spicy Asian to exquisite Mediterranean. Stay in the Las Lomas self-catering village or the luxury La Manga Club Hotel Príncipe Felipe Hotel.

Tennis clinics cost €225-365 in low season and €280-400 high season.

Website: www.lamangaclub.com

Club Med De Balaia, Algarve, Portugal

Portugal's Algarve © www.123rf.com

Forehands with a French slice
Instruction, equipment and all the tennis you can play included in the price - tout alors!

An all-inclusive holiday is one of the cheapest ways to learn or play tennis on holiday.

Practise a different skill each day at twice daily group tuition sessions run by multilingual tennis professionals. Meet up with members of the group for a friendly game afterwards. Classes are also held for children aged six years upwards.

If you want more intensive tuition, opt for a three-day beginner or advanced course (also available in Tunisia, Morocco and Sicily).

Off court, enjoy fitness classes, archery, golf, a sandy beach, unlimited drinks and wonderful French cuisine including lobster and delicious crepes.

Website: www.clubmed.co.uk

Tournaments for Tots

LykiaWorld, Turkey

LykiaWorld, Oludeniz, Turkey
Kids start playing young at this family resort. Lessons start from the age of five plus its International Tournament is open to all the family.

Free group sessions and tournaments are organised daily on the academy's 19 clay and artificial grass courts.

Newcomers can whet their appetite with a free try-out lesson. The use of courts is free plus there's a list of players to contact if you are looking for a game.

The resort has been placed among Europe's top 10 tennis resorts for four consecutive years by Ace tennis magazine.

Three one-hour private lessons cost from €117 (adults), €90 (juniors).

Website: www.lykiaworldtennis.com

Greek mezze

Sailing at Neilson's Retreat Beachclub, Sivota © Kathryn Liston

Mark Warner/Neilson, Greece
With a mezze of sports on offer, mum can brush up her backhand while dad learns how to sail and the kids make friends at the children's club.

Mark Warner's Lakitira Beach Resort on Kos offers group tennis lessons daily on its 11 courts (£50 for four hours' tuition). An intensive Academy Course, which includes seven hours' tuition and speciality shots clinic, costs £100. Watersports tuition is free.

Neilson's Retreat Beachclub in Sivota offers free group tennis tuition daily plus sailing, windsurfing, waterskiing and mountain biking, all set against spectacular mountain scenery.

Websites: www.markwarner.co.uk and www.neilson.co.uk

First-class service

Pine Cliffs Resort

Pine Cliffs Resort, Algarve, Portugal
Learn new tennis skills and keep fit at the same time with a 60-minute cardio session.

An exercise monitor will ensure that your heart pumps as fast as you hit those tennis balls. Organised by the American pro Britt Lilly, this group session takes place on the five flood-lit tennis courts painted in Grand Slam colours - red (French Open), blue (US Open) and green (Wimbledon).

You may even find yourself playing with some of the celebs and football stars who frequent this luxury resort.

Stay in townhouses, villas, luxurious residences or the luxury Sheraton-Algarve Hotel set among beautifully landscaped gardens.

With a challenging nine-hole golf course, nine swimming pools, Porto Pirate children's village and top quality restaurants, this holiday is for players wanting to do more than hit tennis balls all day.

The cardio workout costs €20 and private lessons cost from €52. Court hire prices start at €18.